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Post by triplenickel on May 27, 2015 20:40:33 GMT -5
So gramps, is your new motor in the works yet?
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Post by s10gramps on May 28, 2015 7:52:51 GMT -5
I haven't started buying any parts yet, I still want to see if I'm going to buy them this tax year or next, but I have it budgeted, and am researching different options such as should I buy an assembled short block or do everything myself, block, rotating assembly, etc. I'll be using some parts from my current set up like the heads, carb, and I have both single and dual plane intakes. As of right now I'm pretty set on a 421, 13- 13.5 compression, all forged, solid roller cam set up. I'll need to go with a beefier rear end than I have now also, my trans should be good and I'll add a trans brake to it. I'm looking at this short block. www.cnc-motorsports.com/short-blocks/small-block-chevy-4195/sb-chevy-415-421-short-blocks/cnc-competition-415-421-short-block-scat-3-875-crank-6-0-h-beam-rods-dart-block-mahle-13-7-1-pistons.html |
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Post by butterbean on May 28, 2015 15:04:50 GMT -5
I agree with everything that Triplenickel said 100%, but one thing you said I don't agree with, the one eye thing, I don't believe it your eye-brain will compensate for the depth perception or light delay problem if you have one, you guy's need to really push the issues of having someone come to your track with the proper tools to set the roll out and to the 60' clocks, if you guy's bitich a lot it may happen. I build engines at home for quite a few people and can save you some coins on your 421 short block if you are interested just let me know and I'll do the research on it and let you know.
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Post by s10gramps on May 28, 2015 15:21:55 GMT -5
As for the roll out, many,many people complained last season so they paid for the NHRA to come out and set the lanes, and the results were the same. Now the track has been closed all week again and will open Friday night, two weeks a go they re-wired the whole system and this week a brand new computer system is going in, can't wait to see what problems come from this over the weekend. As for the short block, I love building engines too and I can assemble the entire engine the one aspect that I don't believe I have the proper tools and equipment to do is the balancing, which is one of the reasons I'm considering the assembled and balanced short block. I could save a bunch of money if I wanted to use a G.M. block but I'm not going to, I am going to use a new Dart SHP block whether I buy the assembled version or do it myself. When I factor in the machine shop work if I buy the block myself (and Dart is 20 minutes from my front door) and all the other things like buying the equipment/tools to balance the engine or at least check the balance on a supposedly balanced rotating assembly the price isn't a whole lot less. I know I can get 10% off the cost buying thru Summit and I've got all the numbers written down.
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Post by triplenickel on May 28, 2015 17:06:02 GMT -5
What are the heads that you're using?
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Post by s10gramps on May 28, 2015 19:22:14 GMT -5
AFR Eliminator 220, they're a bit too much for what I'm running now but they should work great on a 421.
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Post by s10gramps on Jun 1, 2015 18:41:45 GMT -5
Ok you guys got me thinking about the new engine build now, so I'm going to ask you for your opinions. My truck weighs about 3100 with me in it and a full fuel cell. When this build is all said and done hopefully in April of next year, I want to dial the truck in around 10.05 - 10.10 in the 1/4 mile, so I'd like it to be able to run like 9.95or so. Now to get to this number I'm thinking 625-650 HP, right now I'm planning on using my TCI turbo 400 and adding a trans brake to it. The rear end is going to have to be upgraded, right now I'm running a G M truck 12 bolt with a mini spool and 3.73 gears, it won't take the added power and the trans brake. I'm thinking Moser or Strange with 4.33 - 4.56 gears and a full spool. Now for the engine displacement, what do you guys think? Like I said I'm leaning towards a 421, but do you think this would be possible with a 383?  And for the block what are your guys opinions on the GM block vs the Dart aftermarket blocks I'm thinking Dart SHP. Also I have no problem assembling the whole motor from the crank up but like I said I want it very well balanced, BB you said you build engines, do you balance your own rotating assemblies? or do use balanced assemblies from like Scat or Eagle and just trust their word that the units are balanced? Whatever size I build it will be turning high RPM and this is why I want it balanced as well as possible. Well lets start with these questions and see where this goes. |
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Post by triplenickel on Jun 1, 2015 21:37:20 GMT -5
I think you're right on track for your goal. I would go with the 421. I would imagine most would think that the 220 heads are too small for the 421, but I think they will be fine for your goal. If you were trying to make Big power, than you would likely need a better head. This combo will make for a very good bracket motor that will be very responsive & have very good shift recovery. Both are important with a heavier vehicle. Just have your cam custom ground for your combo & same with converter.  |
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Post by s10gramps on Jun 1, 2015 21:58:42 GMT -5
Yep that's a concern of mine, whether or not these heads will be enough for the 421. It's probably going to come down to trying them and seeing how it works, but the problem with that logic is that if I try them and they aren't enough I may end up having to re cam and possibly another converter or having a converter re-stalled which is money I really don't want to spend.
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Post by triplenickel on Jun 1, 2015 22:13:50 GMT -5
I know you said you wanted to put your existing drivetrain in another car. If you take the heads off your existing motor, will you have to buy another set to go on it? If you use your current trans, do you have another to replace it?
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Post by s10gramps on Jun 2, 2015 8:55:03 GMT -5
Well I've revised that 2nd car plan a bit. I'm going to concentrate at one thing at a time, so I'm going to get the truck set up to where I want it first and then I'll start thinking about working on that second car. This way I can sell some of the current parts to offset the cost of the new stuff I'll need like the rear end, it's 2 years old and in great shape so I should be able to get 800-1000 for it and use that towards the new rear end. The trans, yes I'l use from this truck, I have a stock T-400 in the garage (surprise I've got parts laying around huh) that I can rebuild to use in the second car when I need it. Now the heads I figure I'll use them on the new build and if they work out great if not I'd probably put them back on the current engine with the dual plane intake that's on it now. I have a super victor (those parts again) to go on the new build, and I have the Holley 750 to go with that (the old motor). If I were to get new heads for the new build what would you think would be a good choice. One of the big reasons I went with the AFR 220s was the fact that I could use factory spec parts in the valve train as opposed to getting the cost of say Jessel rockers set up and spending that kind of money, I'd really like to stay away from that if possible. I'm figuring this engine should run the numbers I'm looking for at 7200-7500 rpm max, I'm thinking the Harland Sharp roller rockers and stud girdles should work fine up to those levels, the big question is will the heads flow enough air to do it. For a cam I'm thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of .650 - .680 lift, I'm good up to .710 with the heads the way they are. Now what about the block, do you think a GM factory block would last with this build, my concerns are the fact that finding a good 400 block is getting tougher all the time and the other thing is the age of these blocks as compared to a new Dart SHP, I can get a new Dart SHP delivered to my door for about 1300, then I'd probably have 500 - 800 in machining to have done, then the balanced forged rotating assembly is going to run 1800 - 2000, so you add that up and I'm at 3600-4100, that's why the balanced/blueprinted assembled short block from CNC looks so good to me, they have a real good reputation, and I know 4 people at the track that are using their short blocks in their cars, none of which have had any problems.
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Post by triplenickel on Jun 2, 2015 12:21:38 GMT -5
I've read about Dr J's airwolf 220 heads. Supposed to flow really well. I think it uses standard valve train & it's a 23 degree head. Give them a call & tell them what you're trying to do.
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Post by s10gramps on Jun 2, 2015 12:27:44 GMT -5
I'll check that out. Another option would be to have my AFR heads "worked on" to get some more flow out of them. You must think I sit on this computer 24 hours a day LOL but I assure you I don't. You just posted that 3 minutes ago and I'm already answering it. Truth is we've been out washing and waxing the wife's car and I cut the lawn for the past 3 hours, I come in check this site and there it was....LOL
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Post by triplenickel on Jun 2, 2015 12:46:43 GMT -5
Chad Speier of Speier Racing Heads has some 23 degree stuff that's pretty good. I believe Speier & Dr J's worked together on the airwolf heads. Bean or some others may have other suggestions.
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Post by triplenickel on Jun 2, 2015 12:49:42 GMT -5
I've been on vacation the last week and a half. That's why I've been on during the day so much!  Go back to work tomorrow!   |
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And for the block what are your guys opinions on the GM block vs the Dart aftermarket blocks I'm thinking Dart SHP. Also I have no problem assembling the whole motor from the crank up but like I said I want it very well balanced, BB you said you build engines, do you balance your own rotating assemblies? or do use balanced assemblies from like Scat or Eagle and just trust their word that the units are balanced? Whatever size I build it will be turning high RPM and this is why I want it balanced as well as possible. Well lets start with these questions and see where this goes.
Go back to work tomorrow! 
