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Post by vernmotor on Feb 5, 2012 11:11:20 GMT -5
Thank you thank you ! that is the right number and Q/F has it sounds like you got a plan there ! good luck.
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Post by vernmotor on May 13, 2012 14:33:05 GMT -5
Ok I still got a problem with this thing popping in the exhaust. seems to do it worst when you get good heat in the car but will do it if it stone cold and you try to move it right away. always is very light throttle ..Car runs great this weekend ran 7.06 10 out of 12 runs and the others two was 7.059 and 7.057..so very consistent. so I am thinking it is lean at very light throttle. so IAB change ? what ? I don't think I want to put the other 50cc pump on it it has very good 60fts. not sure what to change ? I did go from a 4.5 power valve to a 3.5 . not sure it change anything. if you keep the rpm up on the car it will rarely do this. Jenni also says it does it when she lifts/let off. ? I drive the car alot and have never heard it do it then ?
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Post by adamsvega on May 13, 2012 19:33:10 GMT -5
header leak.... too much timing on decell ....spark plug wire or coil arcing at low rpm high load ...... .remove p/v and square jet it to test if lean or rich at that load/rpm ...
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Post by 81camaro383 on May 13, 2012 19:35:15 GMT -5
mine does the same thing worst when cold i try to drive easy if i get into it has a pop in the exhaust to me it sounds like ive got a big dominator on mine when i drive it im block on pv i recently jetted to 90 square it seems to run better now
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Post by vernmotor on May 14, 2012 20:31:06 GMT -5
Ok I going to block off the power valve and square the jets and try it this weekend
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Post by vernmotor on May 21, 2012 12:20:09 GMT -5
Ok put 20 runs on the car this weekend. started out with 94 jets and no power valve . made the popping worst -made it a little faster and made it inconsistent. that was Friday. made 8 runs 4 T/T and 4 rounds got lucky to do that. sat morning change to a 4.5 power valve and 94-86 jets. made 7 runs 2 T/T and 5 rounds. car was very consistent but still have some popping. ran 6- 7.21 Things we learn to make it better and deal with it. do not let it sit and idle and do not do quick throttle bibs under load. just don't do any quick throttle opening. ease in to the burn out. don't try to jump up on the tires. made 5 more runs sunday. 1 t/t and 4 rounds. car get heat in it. even if it hot out it will pick up. ran 7.14 flew times friday with 94 jets in it. that is fast for the track we was at.
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Post by vernmotor on May 21, 2012 12:21:25 GMT -5
I think I going to put the gas carb back on this weekend and make sure all this stops. I am sure it will.
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Post by ajcasini on May 21, 2012 18:37:52 GMT -5
V lern where you at with iab and ifr? Should be around 058 iab and 044 ifr. Your combo is very simila to my mild 440 I ran a couple years ago. Had 025 hsb 88-96 jets with a pv.
Where are your 4 corners idles at? What is timing at and what plug you running?
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Post by ajcasini on May 21, 2012 18:38:57 GMT -5
Based on what Adam had you try sounds like it might be rich at light throttle. Without the pv it's getting a lot more fuel at light throttle of the booster draw.
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Post by vernmotor on May 21, 2012 19:21:58 GMT -5
Yea I thinking now it is a touch rich.. I will have to read all up the page here to what in it now lol. I got it wrote down in the trailer.
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Post by vernmotor on May 21, 2012 19:31:32 GMT -5
Ok IFR .42- IAB .065- HSB .027 timming 18-21 with 34 total . 86 -94 jets 4.5 PV plug NGK 7 I have to check on the plug to be sure .
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Post by vernmotor on May 21, 2012 19:36:14 GMT -5
What does bigger or smaller IFR do for you ?
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Post by ajcasini on May 21, 2012 21:23:36 GMT -5
Larger ifr puts more fuel at idle smaller ifr less fuel.
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Post by adamsvega on May 22, 2012 5:42:38 GMT -5
you really need a afr meter or egt . when alky base fuels are tuned rich it slows down to gas levels and heats the heck outta the pipes then it will pop, surge or get raddy . i think that big azz scoop is helping top end .if ya have no access to this stuff ya can get welders cryons that melt at set temps to cheat,. or read the plugs .... by what you say it got worse and was slow then we need to pull fuel out mid range without killing booster response. as long as your idle screws work and you get you best idle at lowest throttle closed setting at 1.0-1.5 turn out your idle feeds are right .if not and your crutching it and we need to adjust. if we open up idle bleed by .002 and see how much it effects the idle screws would be my first adjustment as would be lowering fuel bowl levels a few flats and convert the regulator to a a vacuum type to lower idle psi below 3 also what rpm is timing curve in vs leave rpm .you really want less advance in distributor but same to more total time in engine compaired to gas all of these adjustments will lean on mid range .if idle is dead on i would start by locking dist. to only 5-7 deg. adv. to come in around leave rpm or just after depending on how it reacts and comes up on converter/brake
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Post by vernmotor on May 22, 2012 17:45:36 GMT -5
Ok timing is all in by 1500 and we leave at 1900-2000. idle screws have never done much on this carb.. when I square it made the pop worst but car was faster.
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